Wonderffle is all about the waffle, both kinds. Didn’t know there are different kinds of waffles? Well, there are.
There’s the Brussels waffle, which is crisp and airy and quite square, and the Liège (pronounced Lee-EJ), which is pretty much the opposite: soft and dense and with irregular edges.
Brussels and Liège are, of course, two distinct Belgian cities, but far from a heated rivalry, both are served at most waffle houses throughout that country. And yet, Wonderffle’s online menu clearly favours Liège, and the in-house menu offers a choice of Brussels, only if you insist.
Wonderffle is located at the corner of Yates and Broad, in what was formerly the Wild Coffee space. It boasts a sizable dining room behind plenty of glass that displays everything inside to the passing traffic outside. Add the simple black on white font on its name board perched above the door, the pink and white interior, and scattering of tables and chairs, and the place presents as a low-budget fast food place. And it is, to a point.
I select a window table where I can return the gaze of passing pedestrians while watching a regular stream of online preorder pick-up customers come and go with hardly a moment’s pause. Mere moments later, I have a menu and a mug of Fernwood dark roast coffee before me.
Now, Belgians don’t eat waffles like we do in North America. To start, waffles are considered a dessert or snack, not breakfast, and are not topped with butter and syrup. Belgians top their waffles with all manner of fresh fruit, preserves, chocolate and caramel sauces, cinnamon sugar, even ice cream.
Wonderffle offers a wide selection of indulgent mini Liège waffles of just three or four fun bites each. I came for something more serious: Bennies. Served on mini Liege waffles, mini Brussels waffles, or English muffins if one absolutely must insist on tradition.
I could have ordered chicken and waffles or the brunch plate, which is the closest thing to the classic North American fare of eggs, meat, potatoes and waffle served in most breakfast diners.
I choose the Crispy Cutlet Bennie ($24), on Liege waffles. I get two, each topped with a breaded pork cutlet, poached egg, hollandaise and okonomi (a thick umami-packed, somewhat fruity Japanese sauce), decorated with shredded pickled-pink daikon and sprouts.
I opt for a fresh side salad of mixed greens and grape tomatoes dressed in a house-made purée of lemon, onions and carrots. Delicious. Liege waffles have a doughy consistency, much like a sweet bread, and accordingly, are much more filling than the more familiar Brussels waffles.
The menu states that the eggs are poached medium, still, I ask if they might be prepared a bit softer, anticipating the yolk coursing down and soaking into those waffles. But they arrived medium, with bright yellow, almost gelatinous yolks, but not running. No matter, delicious anyway.
I also found an undissolved bit of pearl sugar in my waffle. Pearl sugar is a traditional ingredient of Liège waffles, but it is supposed to melt during cooking, leaving behind discreet pockets of sweetness. Finding one unmelted is a bit concerning for the uninitiated, as it looks and feels much like a piece of tooth, and I knew it wasn’t mine.
Don’t like waffles? Wonderffle has you covered with a selection of handhelds (Breakfast burgers, an Egg-drop sandwich, sweet and spicy chicken wings) and a section of breakfast poutines: not a waffle in sight.
Wonderffle Café | 778 899 4719
632 Yates St., Victoria
wonderffle.ca
