When I took on this column in August 2022, it seemed like a fabulous opportunity, with lots of creative licence, to sample Victoria’s slice of the bar and pub culture and tell some great stories. And so it has proved.
Featuring 40-plus establishments in the area – and beyond – has taught me that Victoria is a city that takes its leisure with a side of historical re-enactment. It is a place where you can drink a cocktail in a former bank vault, a pint in a 19th-century carriage house, or a neon-blue rum punch under a plastic palm tree while it rains sideways outside. And we wouldn’t have it any other way.
I felt it was time to reflect on my story so far, so here is a lighthearted look at 10 of the best pubs and bars I have featured to date, in and around the Garden City.
Where better to launch with a bang than the Irish Times? Voted the best Irish pub in North America in 2017 and the best Irish entertainment venue a year later, this Government Street staple is housed in a grand 1894 bank, where the only thing higher than the ceilings is the energy of the nightly live music. Whether you’re chasing a perfect Guinness pour, a bowl of classic shepherd’s pie or a bacon & brie burger, it’s a raucous, fiddle-heavy haven where the craic is always palpable. I was welcomed warmly by Parker and the team, and the hospitality shown was exceptional. It’s hard not to be swept along by the pluck of the Irish. And did I mention that the Guinness brownie is to die for?
Another former bank, just down Government Street, is the Bard & Banker – a venue that drips with history and charisma. The ceilings are high, and the chandeliers are large. Drinking here makes you feel as though wearing a top hat and discussing the price of coal wouldn’t be out of place. The barstools are leather, but most notably can spin, which you have to watch out for. Legend has it that a man once tried to mount one and was launched toward a plate of truffle fries. Impressively, though, he didn’t spill his scotch. That’s the Victoria way: elegance under pressure. And the B&B exudes barrel-loads of that. I enjoyed my time there, and Demian and the team (he’s since opened the Saxe Point Pub) painted a definitive picture for me of their unique vibe.
Out of town a little, the Monkey Tree is the spiritual headquarters of Saanich, a quintessential neighbourhood pub where the wings are legendary and the Music Bingo is a high-stakes sport. It’s the kind of place where everyone knows your name and exactly how many pints you need to start singing along to the jukebox. Decorated with just enough monkey memorabilia to keep things quirky, it’s a sprawling, unpretentious refuge and a hub of the community. The tale of the original Monkey Tree, after which the pub is named, is also quite a story. I was fed and watered delightfully here by Robert and the team and left with a spring in my step.
Another iconic neighbourhood retreat is the Penny Farthing, essentially a cozy hat-tip to the British and located in the heart of Oak Bay. Walking inside feels like being hugged by a wool sweater knitted by Queen Victoria herself. With four crackling fireplaces and enough etched glass to confuse a magpie, it’s the primary habitat for locals who lap up the vibe of a classic community pub. It’s a place where you can discuss the weather or sports for 40 minutes over a pint of bitter without anyone blinking. An actual Penny Farthing bicycle, hanging from the ceiling, will also have you mesmerized. Kudos to Sam and the team for hosting me at short notice and sharing their story.
Christie’s Carriage House Pub has transformed from a 19th-century mansion built by Eldridge Christie into a modern-day homage to turn-of-the-century Victoria. It offers a labyrinth of cozy nooks, rooms and corridors, where the architecture beams with historical tales – plus two heated patios. Originally built for a carriage maker, the restored 1905 Rockaway Coupe carriage remains proudly on display near the pub’s front entrance. Opened for business as a pub in 1986, Christie’s is the perfect place to hide in a corner with a book and a burger, occasionally looking up to see if the lady in the 19th-century dress is a patron or a ghost. (If she doesn’t order the yam fries, she’s probably a ghost.) The team at Christie’s showed me great hospitality and really went the extra yard.
The 4 Mile House Brewpub is a Tudor-style time machine that has been standing since the 1858 Gold Rush. It also survived prohibition. Originally a roadhouse for weary pioneers, it was renovated and brought back to life as a pub in 1979 by Graham and Wendy Haymes. With its low beams and labyrinthine nooks, it’s the perfect spot to rest from the modern world while lapping up the atmosphere of roasted malt and history. And spooky experiences are almost guaranteed – all part of the charm of this memorable View Royal venue. The 4 Mile team were also excellent hosts to me and laid on a four-dish spread of mouthwatering food to sample.
Driftwood Brewery is a cornerstone of Victoria’s craft beer identity, renowned for its commitment to high-gravity, flavour-forward brewing. Since its launch in 2008, the brewery has achieved cult status, largely driven by the “Fat Tug” IPA, which set a new standard for Northwest-style hop profiles. Their expansive taproom in Esquimalt reflects a modern, industrial esthetic, offering a sophisticated space to sample year-round staples and limited-run experiments. Beyond the flagship IPA, Driftwood is respected for its mastery of diverse styles, including Belgian-inspired ales and refined sours. I was shown around their epic, nearly 60,000-square-foot brewery and enjoyed some delicious beer and food in their tasting room.
The Saxe Point Pub is Esquimalt’s new kid on the block. Opened in July 2024 by former Bard & Banker general manager Demian Merino, the modern design with a hint of Mexican flavour is lighting up Park Place and helping to put the area on the map. The classic comfort food and striking drinks menu are complemented by an authentic, easy-going atmosphere, which helps it to stand out as a quintessential hub of the community. With its proximity to the scenic Saxe Point Park, the pub is perfect for a range of patrons. Demian and the team were brilliant hosts and their quality shone through.
Meanwhile, back downtown, descending into Cenote feels like discovering your coolest older sibling’s secret underground lair. It’s a dim, art-filled bunker where the cocktails are as inventive as the local indie scene. Whether you’re sipping a drink infused with smoked rosemary or a spherical ice cube that has more personality than most politicians, you’ll be spellbound watching the bartenders in action. It’s the perfect place to hide from the sun, the tourists, and the stress of the outside world. I was welcomed with open arms and loved the relaxed vibe. An off-the-beaten-track gem.
No Victoria pub crawl is complete without a visit to Tora Tiki. Walking into the neon-lit tiki bar is like having a tropical fever dream. It’s a subterranean paradise where the ‘Victoria Tilt’ is finally explained by rum rather than heritage floorboards. You can sit under a plastic palm tree and sip a drink served in a ceramic volcano that is – at some point – on fire. It is kitschy and a perfect reminder that sometimes you just want to drink rum out of a coconut while a carved tiki god watches over you. Karaoke is also on tap here, so you can let your inner Mariah Carey go wild. I had a really memorable time at Tora Tiki.
Hearty shout-outs go to Bartholomew’s, Leopold’s Tavern (my first featured bar), the Drake Eatery, the Refuge Taproom and Little Jumbo, the latter of which sadly is no longer with us.
It’s been a fascinating journey of discovery so far, and who knows what the future may bring?
