The nondescript sign hangs along the grey marquee of a nondescript miniature strip mall on Oak Bay Avenue, across from the Shell station. Its neighbours include a heat pump installer and a dollar store. A neon “open” sign glows red above one of two windows flanking a glass door, all dark. We step closer to see that yes, it is indeed open.

Within is quiet sophistication with wood-grain floors and wainscoting below white walls and ceilings. Modern black leather chairs surround grey leather-wrapped tables topped with glass below a Chinese-style mural in windy whites and greys depicting birds soaring among autumn branches.

The menu is extensive, beginning with the usual assortment of soups and a selection of combo dinners for from one to four diners. Plates for sharing are presented in sections of noodle dishes, rice dishes, dishes with beef, pork, chicken, seafood and a selection of nine vegan dishes. Most of the menu items are familiar in any Chinese restaurant, but there are exceptions: salted fish and chicken fried rice, for example, or curried beef brisket.

Or the diced Szechuan fish (spicy) combo-for-one ($17.95). Panda Island serves its combo-for-ones on long, rectangular plates with the three components lined up with protein on the left, rice central, and vegetables on the right.

My wok-fried vegetables are a mixture of broccoli, carrot, white onion, green bell pepper, bok-choy, and mushrooms, lightly fried in oil long enough to soften them slightly. Diced carrot, peas and flakes of egg yolk decorate the generous central portion of fried brown rice. But the star of the show is here on the left. A tasty medley of soft white fish in a thick, sweet sauce mixed with white onion, celery, mushrooms, carrots, radish and red pepper. I asked for medium spice and found it easy to handle.

My party and I arrived late: a bit before 8:30 p.m. and were welcomed heartily. We were also the last to leave, after closing time. Though clean up of the dining room had started, it was non-intrusive, and the staff remained friendly and courteous, repeating that we needn’t rush, but relax and enjoy the end of our meal. Of course, we did rush a bit, and leaving late allowed us the opportunity to personally thank the abundantly grateful chef, Wen.

A word of caution atop the menu advises that Panda Island does add MSG to most of its dishes. MSG (monosodium glutamate) stimulates secretion of saliva, which has the effect of deepening the flavour of savoury foods. Use of MSG reduces the need for added salt, which can be much more impactful on our health than MSG. MSG is derived from natural sources, often sugar beets, and is generally regarded as safe by the World Health Organization. Still, some people may exhibit sensitivities that can trigger annoying, temporary side effects that have earned MSG it’s less than stellar reputation. Folks wanting to avoid MSG should ask about dishes from which it can be left out. Kudos to Panda Island for such considerate, forthright honesty.

Panda Island Chinese Cuisine | 1950 A Oak Bay Avenue

250 595 3021 | pandaislandvictoria.com