Taste Thrills, No Frills

John’s Noodle Village offers the beauty of simplicity done right

Often when recommending favourite dining spots, we all tend to give a lot of weight to ambience, service and location—but sometimes, it really is all about the food. In the case of John’s Noodle Village, the strip-mall location at the corner of Bay and Dowler may not be their strong suit, and the interior could be lifted from many a Chinese restaurant, but good food is what we were are after when we pulled into the lonely, snow-filled parking lot one night before Christmas; we were not disappointed.

We were the first and only table in the place for a good while and my view of the service evolved over the evening, starting with our greeting—which was quiet and kind of deadpan (and strange enough for us to look at each other with amused question marks in our eyes). Add to that the snowy darkness outside, the lack of any other people and the music (especially a version of the Righteous Brothers’ “Unchained Melody,” arranged for traditional Chinese instruments) and we got the amusing feeling that we belonged in an episode of Twin Peaks. But boy, was the food ever good.

Immediately after being seated, a complimentary pot of hot Chinese tea was delivered—great for sipping while perusing the large menu, which, along with many of the same chow meins, fried rice, meat, seafood and vegetable dishes available at similar establishments, presents a smattering of Thai- and Singapore-influenced plates, and an emphasis on spicier Sichuan offerings. With no drinks section, the existence of the bar was our only indication of the possibility of being served alcohol; when I asked about beer, it turned out that several kinds of local and imported bottles could be had but, to be honest, our server’s answer to my inquiry was less than inspiring, so I stuck with the tea. The kids were eventually brought water, but the adults were never asked what they wanted to drink.

For food, we started with the excellent shrimp wonton soup, also available with pork ($7.25). Like the JJ Wonton Noodle House on Fort Street—with which this Noodle Village has a familial connection—John’s makes their own noodles, and this makes a decided difference. A clear, slightly salty shrimp broth is home to one perfectly el dente broccoli floret and six large, silky, translucent noodles enveloping the firm, fleshy white meat of the prawns. Four bowls and spoons were provided in a quiet, friendly way and we all enjoyed our share.

More homemade noodles made their way to our table in the form of the Shanghai thick noodle chow mein with shredded pork and Chinese vegetables ($11.95). Only small amounts of cabbage and green onion and a tiny bit of pork accompany the supple, firm and, yes, thick noodles—but unlike some other restaurants, the unbalanced ratio of the dish toward the starch is not really a drawback, as the noodles are superb.

The imperial prawn with cashews ($15.95)—our top pick from the seafood section—consists of about a dozen prawns, snow peas, peppers, celery, carrots and water chestnuts, coated in a generous amount of sweet-and-sour sauce. All the vegetables were bright in colour and firm in texture, providing fresh crunch alongside the soft prawns. This dish is listed as spicy; I found it quite mild, but fully flavoured nonetheless. In fact, due to the amount of tangy sauce, I would recommend the addition of some white rice (small bowl $1.50).

For specials, don’t forget to check out the large, handwritten special sheet that stands at the entry, which is where I saw the listing for Sichuan green beans ($12.95)—our favourite entree of the night, and one that once again confirms the beauty of simplicity done right. This large pile of beans, somehow simultaneously wilted and crispy, needed nothing more than generous amounts of thinly sliced garlic, sweet chilies, salt and a hint of hoi sin to make it memorable. With this dish, the magic surely happens in the wok, with the skill and authenticity of the chef as the main ingredient.

All in all, if you’re looking for some good Chinese food to help celebrate the upcoming transition to the Year of the Ox later this month, John’s Noodle Village provides some of the best in town. The service, if odd, was mostly adequate and the prices, while higher than a lot of places, are fair considering the food quality, which is superior to most. A good bet for your Chinese New Year celebrations—especially if excellence on your plate is your main consideration. M

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John’s Noodle Village
823 Bay
11:30am-2pm and 4:30-8pm
Tuesday-Saturday
250-978-9328