Cheque, Please

 Monday’s restaurant reviewer signs off with a list of faves

From Time’s “The Ten Worst Things about the Worst Decade Ever” to foodnetworkhumour.com’s list of the “Top 10 Biggest Food Network Foodgasms of 2009,” it’s list time again. It’s now been well over three years since I started this writing gig, and I’ve decided to retire this column with an alphabetical list of my favourite new Victoria restaurants, defined as either “very new” when I started writing here in the spring of 2006 or places that have opened during my tenure on these pages.

• Aura - This is the priciest place on the list, and well worth it. Executive chef Brad Horen and his team put out some of the best food in the city and floor to ceiling light boxes add to the waterfront ambience.
Highlights: crispy wonton crusted spot prawns with togorashi mayonnaise ($15), and the surf and turf ($28), with braised short rib, smoked scallops, and tempura vegetable maki sushi. And, let it be known: the Victoria burger blog has named their $16 lunch-only Point Burger as the #1 in the city. (at the Inn at Laurel Point, 680 Montreal, 250-414-6739, aurarestaurant.ca)

• Devour - This tiny, beautiful little place really does use the best of local ingredients whenever they can, and the love of food and cooking with it is abundantly clear on every plate. Daily changing menu on their website.
Highlights: Whatever they are making that day. Really. As I write, their menu features apricot lentil soup ($5/7), turkey mole tamale pie ($8.50), braised lamb spaetzle with swiss chard and caramelized tomatoes ($10.50), and an apple and Blue cheese Monte Cristo ($6.50). To quote someone else’s urbanspoon.com review “spend $10 here and get a $20 meal.” (762 Broughton, 250-590-3231, devour.ca)

• Foo - The newest of the new on this list, treat yourself to a quick, friendly, affordable eat-in or take-out bit of Asian street food here, with nods to China, Thailand, Indonesia, India, Vietnam and more.
Highlights: The crispy, savoury-sweet Vietnamese caramel ginger chicken ($9), braised short rib beef and broccoli chow mein with ginger black bean sauce ($10). The location, and the buzz of the sizzling, shiny open kitchen. (769 Yates, 250-383-3111, foofood.ca))

• Pizzeria Prima Strada - As rave reviews continue to pile up there must be a few people muttering, “Why didn’t I think of that?” Neapolitan pizza made with the proper fine flour, quality ingredients, and simplicity—only six varieties, one size only, and no delivery. Thin, soft crust, limited ingredients, and baked at 850 degrees for about three minutes. Awesome. 
Highlights: Melanzana and tonno appetizer ($7), Funghi pizza ($13) with porcini cream, roasted mushrooms and onion, and pecorino sheep’s milk cheese, Nutella pie ($6.50). (230 Cook, 250-590-8595, pizzeriaprimastrada.com)

• Lucy’s in the Square - This family-run establishment opened during the whole “is this a recession or a depression?” economic climate, but is thriving. Owned by award-winning chef Jeff Keenliside and his wife, Mickie, who manages some of the best service in the city.
Highlights: fantastic service, local art on the walls, the pulled pork sandwich ($9), one of the best fresh, lemony romaine salads around ($4/8), and entrees including chicken confit with braised garlic greens ($18). (1296 Gladstone, 778-430-5829, lucysinthesquare.com)

• Pink Bicycle - A gourmet burger joint that takes a great concept and does it right. For my March review they were out of both the local organic lamb burger ($15) and the Metchosin mutton burger ($12), but we recently visited again for dinner and had them both. Superb.
Highlights: Showing it can be done, these guys use beef, mutton, lamb, bison and pork from Vancouver Island. Wow. Sesame buns from Bond Bond’s bakery next door. Super red onion rings and lots of great side dips (50 cents). (1008 Blanshard, 250-384-1008, pinkbicycleburger.com)

• Red Fish Blue Fish - Currently closed for the season, and opening again February 1, this is gourmet, environmentally proactive, waterfront fast food at its best. Located at the foot of Broughton Street.
Highlights: Architecture and location—a converted shipping container on the docks. Local seafood such as the albacore tuna tacone with B.C. spot prawn mayo ($6), crispy deep-fried local fish and hand-cut Kennebec chips. (1006 Wharf, redfish-bluefish.com)

• Stage Wine Bar - This is often the first restaurant name that comes out of my mouth when someone asks where to eat in Victoria. Upscale yet casual ambience with sexy seasonal food to share, made with quality ingredients and attention to detail.
Highlights: Everything I’ve eaten here, including George Szasz’s homemade charcuterie ($5 each), Cortes Island mussels ($12), grilled haloumi with local tomatoes ($10), crispy fried local octopus ($10), amazing duck confit ($12). The list goes on. Excellent service and a great vibe. (1307 Gladstone, 250-388-4222, stagewinebar.com)

• The Superior - This unique restaurant with an ever changing, locally sourced, small plates menu, live music and inspired atmosphere lives up to its name.
Highlights: The place itself and its owner/hostess Lisa Boheme. Grilled pork belly ($12), tuna tataki ($12), the Liberace flatbread with figs, prosciutto, goat cheese and caramelized onion ($15), and house-smoked Cowichan Bay chicken wings ($14). (106 Superior, 250-380-9515, thesuperior.ca)

Thanks to all my readers and to the Monday team. I’ve learned a lot and been fed well. Cheers! M